To win effectively at the Domino game, players must determine whether or not the tile they have choosen will result in a scoring Board count once played. In most online rooms, the current Board count is often displayed as a helpful reminder to both of the players. In general, players usually select a tile in their thoughts and then add up all of the board ends, including the end they intend to leave open, concluding that once added up the resulting Board count will either score or be a miss.
To win effectively at the Domino game
Some players will even pick up the tile and hold it over the available hook end without actually dropping it into play, making the manual addition of all the open ends visually a bit easier to complete.
Here are a few ways to find out
This slow way of playing is both time-consuming and entirely unneccessary! It’s now time to learn a much more effective method of determining how each tile in your hand affects the current Board Count by using the Dominoes strategy chart.
1. Hooking Standard, Non-Double Tiles
Each non-double bandarqq has two unmatched ends, with one end always being bigger (having more Pips) than the other. For example, on the 3-6 tile the big end would be the Six and the smaller end the Three. All of these standard, non-double tiles therefore must have a difference in Pips. The Difference for any tile of this type is arrived at by subtracting the smaller end from the bigger end.
In our example, the difference for the 3-6 tile is three, since six minus three would equal 3. The 4-5 tile would have a difference of 1 (5 minus 4=1), the 2-4 tile has a difference of 2 (4 minus 2=2) and so on. This simple method of determining the difference for each non-double tile is the foundation for a greatly enhanced understanding of available scoring plays.
Whenever a non-double tile is connected to the Board, with only a few exceptions (explained below), it changes the Board Count in predictable ways. Hooking the small end of a tile Adds the difference to the current Board Count, and hooking the bigger end Subtracts it. Using the Dominoes scoring chart we’ve developed to the right as a referrence, we find the non-double tiles arranged so that tiles with identical differences are grouped together, along with the Double tiles off to the side (which we’ll examine later).
For example, there are six tiles that have differences of 1 (the 0-1, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5 and 5-6 tiles) and they are highlighted in light blue on the chart under the heading +/- 1. This is because a player may hook the big or small end and change the current Board count by that difference, subtracting from or adding to it depending on which end they were able to hook into the board.
Consider the scenario where the available open scoring ends of the board result in a Board Count of 7. To score on this board total, we must either add +3 to the current Board Count, which would result in 10pts (7+3=10) or -2 for 5pts (subtracting 2 from 7). Using the chart, we see that hooking the small end of any tile grouped under the +/- 3 section, highlighted in purple, would add +3 and score 10pts. Additionally, by hooking the big end of any tile grouped under the +/- 2 section, highlighted in green, we would subtract -2 and also score by reducing the BC to 5pts.
2 Hooking Double Tiles to the Board
The Doubles are also listed on the chart, catagorized together on the far right. Like the groupings of non-double tiles, they are also colored to help further classify their adjusting properties. The rules for hooking a Double onto the board are similiar to, but slightly different from, the methods for non-doubles. Since Doubles do not have an end that is larger than the other, there is no difference for Double tiles. Instead, when we hook a Double onto the board you simply Add the denomination of the Double.
In fact, Doubles always Add to the Board count and never subtract from it. So if you were to hook the Double-Three to the Board, you’d add +3 to the Board Count. For the Double-Five +5 is added, and so on. We’ve colored the Doubles similiar to their non-double partners, such as making the Double-One blue since it will be adding +1 when it’s connected, to make it easier to understand. However, remember that Doubles can only add to the BC and cannot reduce it, unlike the more flexible non-doubles.
3. Hooking Standard Tiles Onto Board Doubles
So far we’ve covered how to connect the tiles in your hand, both standard and Doubles, onto regular (non-double) ends. But what about when there’s a Double on the board to hook into? In these situations, slightly different rules are required. To calculate the effect of the tile you hook into, you must take the sum of the Double (the total number of Pips found on it) and subtract it from the end you’re going to leave. For example, say you are going to hook the 4-6 onto the Double-Four.
You’d take the sum of the Double-Four’s Pips (8) and subtract it from the Leave (6) to arrive at the Board changing total of -2 (6-8= -2). Considering a current Board Count of 14, adding the 4-6 onto the Double-Four results in a new Board Count of 12 (6-8= -2 then -2+14=12). Adding standard tiles to Doubles often results in board reductions, due to the fact that you’re covering a large tile and leaving a smaller end, and can even achieve larger than usual negative reductions to the board such as -7 and lower.